Added Rules ( Instructions) for Science Fiction Gaming.

Below are some extra rules to add to to those listed in the Table Top Battles 2nd Edition.

VEHICLE STATS                  DEFENSE POINTS.                                  

Deployed Towed Artillery;                3pts.                         

Deployed Towed Heavy Artillery;    3pts.                         

Limbered Towed Artillery;                4pts.                  

Light Armoured Personnel Carrier.   4pts.

Heavy Armoured Personnel Carrier.  5pts.

Vehicle-Mounted Small-Arms;        ————.                  

VEHICLE STATS:                     ATTACK POINTS,

Deployed Towed Artillery             5pts.

Deployed Towed Heavy Artillery: 6pts.

Vehicle-Mounted Small-Arms:       3pts.

* RULE CHANGE: Small Arms and Rifles have no effect on Vehicles of 4 DEFENSE POINTS OR ABOVE.

*During a Game-Turn, both sides will roll a 12 sided die to see who fires first, prior to the Firing Phase.

MACHINE GUNS AND  MINIE GUN AGAINST INFANTRY:   If the target infantry stand is caught in the open by Machine gun fire, the target infantry stand is automatically removed on any lower score.

 NOTE: Players will still throw a 12 sided to decide who moves first, gains the Initiative Point and decides Combats.

* The side with the Initiative Point also decides any tied results. 

* Vehicles do not have to “ move-back” as a result of Firing. If not moving back,  a vehicle will have 2 Points deducted from any Firing die roll on return fire within the same Game-Turn.

* vehicles cannot move over or through a square containing another vehicle, wether they be friendly or otherwise.

* Vehicles CAN move through /over a square containing friendly Infantry but cannot actually stop within the square containing the friendly infantry.

* Vehicles and Artillery As Targets : If within 2 squares the target will be destroyed on any lower score, HOWEVER, if the TARGET STAND SCORES HIGHER, IT IS THE FIRING STAND THAT IS DESTROYED.   Infantry targets are classed as a miss, should the Infantry score higher and still have the option to “move-back”.

* If two opposed Vehicles/guns are in adjacent squares during the combat phase and neither wishes to “avoid”, then both vehicles/guns are destroyed in a collision. When the situation is a vehicle versus enemy infantry, then if the infantry fail to avoid, the infantry stand is removed from play.

* Opposed forces will have their Morale calculated by adding the combined Defense and Attack Points of each stand into a grand total. This total is divided by 2 and the end result is the Morale of the Force. This is reduced as stands are destroyed.

* Destroyed vehicle stands are left on the playing area and Both Sides CANNOT move vehicles or figures over or through that square, or diagonally between that square and any obstacle.

* Destroyed vehicles do block line of sight for Firing.

* The Infantry within an APC can leave the APC when the APC stops moving. The Infantry are positioned alongside the APC on that Game-Turn. The infantry can fire. When infantry are adjacent to an APC they can mount up and the APC can move.

* If an APC is hit, it’s points total,plus the points total of the stand or stands it was carrying are removed from the morale total of that army.

BASING FIGURES: 

This is just a suggestion. On my stands I have used this system. 5 figures for Regular armed “Riflemen”. 4 figures for a “Heavy Weapons” group and 3 figures for a Command Group which includes a “Heavy Weapon”. I’ll use 6 figures for a Militia group.

The Kra’vak, I’ve based as 5 “rifles” and 4 to a Heavy Weapons Team. There is no Command. These Aliens just come together for an attack or Campaign!.

This picture shows the “ Orbital Knights Vehicles” from ETSY which are six to a pack. Two I have converted to tanks. The other four are APC,s which each carry two squads. The figures are from Ground Zero Games Kra’vak range.

This picture shows the small “Blower” APC,s. Each one carries  a squad of figures. Each “Company” is of two squads of Rifles. 1 Heavy Weapon squad and one Command Squad that also has a heavy weapon.( This is part of the force that is listed as a Mercenary Company by Brigade Models).

* Towed Artillery can limber up and move OR move and unlimber. The Towed Artillery cannot perform both functions in the same Game-Turn.

* Towed Artillery cannot fire while limbered, and cannot fire in the same turn as unlimbering.

* Towed Artillery do not use the “Move-Back rule but do deduct 2points if firing back within the same Game-Turn.

This picture shows the same artillery piece limbered and unlimbered. ( artillery crew from Brigade Miniatures, Gun and Tractor from Alternative Armies Bradley Fighting Vehicles.)

The above instructions have come about since playing the game shown in the previous blog.

I used the basic rules given in the Table Top Battles 2nd edition and I thought to add a little more detail.

The map of the imaginary world of Esper is in the rulebook.

Battle of Klissow : Poland-Lithuania July 9th 1702.

This is another battle of  the Great Northern War where an outnumbered Swedish army took on a larger force. However a few incidents happened which favoured the Swedes in winning this battle and I have tried to reflect this in the reconstruction.

The Swedish Army;

Infantry ; 8000 = 8 points x 3 = 24 points.

Cavalry ;  4000 = 4 points x 3 = 12 points.

Artillery ; This was available but was left trailing in order to get the army into battle formation as soon as possible.

1) General Carl Gustav Rehnskiold= 1 point.
2) General Knut Goransson Posse   = 1 point.
3) General Frederick 4th Duke
of Holstein-Gottorp = 2 points.

4 stands of Line Cavalry @ 3 points = 12 points.
7 stands of Line Muskets @ 2 points = 14 points.
2 stands of Pikemen @ 3points = 6 points.

Saxony Army.

Infantry ; 7000 = 7 points x 3 = 21 points.

Cavalry ; 9000 = 9 points x 3 = 27 points.

46 guns ( ÷10 ) = 4 guns.

A) General Adam Heinrich von Steinau = 1point.
B) Johann von Der Schulenburg = 1 point.
C) Jacob Heinrich von Fleming = 1 point.

Poland

Cavalry; 5000 = 5 points x 3 = 15 points.

Winged Hussars 1,250 = 1.250 points x 3 = 4 points.

Polish Infantry 660 = 0.660 points x 3 = 2 points.

D) General Hieronim Augustyn Lubomirski = 1 point.

7 stands of Saxon Line Cavalry @ 3 points = 21 points.
2 stands of Saxon Light Dragoons @ 2 points = 4 points.
10 stands of Saxon Line Infantry @ 2 points = 20 points.
4 stands of heavy guns @ 2 points = 8 points.

The Polish Wing.

4 stands of Line Cavalry @ 3points = 12 points.
1 stand of Line Dragoons @ 2 points = 2 points.
1 stand of Winged Hussars @ 4 points = 4 points.
1 stand of Line Infantry @ 2 points= 2 points.

Special notes;

This is another battle that needs a few special rules in order to obtain a reasonable outcome. The Swedes did win despite being outnumbered!! but the Saxons and Poles did put up a bit of a fight and I wanted to give
both sides a chance of victory.

● If cavalry attack enemy infantry within the marshy area they do not get the 3 points for attacking Infantry on flat open ground.

● Any stands moving into the marshy ground on each side of the stream plus the stream itself can only move one square each Game Turn.

●  The Saxon artillery cannot move.

● The artillery has only two squares range.

● Stands cannot be moved through the trees.

● The Nida river cannot be crossed.

●The Swedish army gets the Initiative point every Game-Turn and also moves  first every Game Turn.

● The Swedish player can move all their stands
on the movement phase. The Saxon player however has to throw a 12 sided die, the result showing the number of stands that can be, prior to the to the Saxon movement phase.

The above hopefully reflects the conditions of
the actual battle. Despite the Saxons having the
preponderance of artillery it didn't seem to affect the Swedish manoeuvres.
The Saxons attacked twice along with the Polish wing. After being beaten back twice the Swedes advanced. For some reason both Generals Fleming and Lubomirski
decided to withdraw their commands!!

The entire Polish wing plus the Saxon right wing cavalry and Dragoons left the field, leaving General Steinau's Cavalry and General Schulenbergs infantry ( which up to this point seemed to be doing little ) to fight a rearguard action!.

As the Swedes overan the Saxon artillery the guns were turned on their former owners.

● Ok, to reflect this, if a Swedish infantry stand moves into an adjacent square to a Saxon artillery stand and, the Swedes are not in combat the gun becomes Swedish!.

A couple of important points;

● Duke Frederick was mortally wounded at one point in the battle so the Swedish King himself took command of the Swedish left wing ( 2 points ).

● At the start of GAME TURN 6, All the Polish stands plus the Saxon right wing cavalry along with general's Fleming and Lubomirski are taken Off The Board! The Swedish player then moves their stands.

Winning the game.

Having played this game three times  I have found that numbers do count and, without the above restrictions the Swedes cannot win.
So, at the end of Game Turn 8, the Swedish player must have a minimum of Three Stands on the South Side of the stream within the marshy ground in order to win the game. The small red lines on each side of the map delianate how far forward the stands must be..

The Saxons win if they can prevent this.

One last historical note. This appears to be the
last battle in which the famous Polish Winged
Hussars took the field ( so it was nice to have a
historical reason to include a stand of these
famous troops on the table!!)

As before , I used a 3 foot x 2 foot ( 90 cm x 60 cm )
table with a 2 inch ( 50mm ) square grid.

Here is the map;

This is the board showing the set up;

All the figures are 15mm from either Essex Miniatures or Minifigs.

Finally, here's a glimpse of those famous horsemen from the Essex Miniatures range;

Scenery for the Grid.

When I started using a grid, I wanted the scenery to fit in with this system. Now, I realised that I could have irregular shaped scenery, however I did,nt want the stands of figures standing at odd angles and being half-on or half-off the scenery.

Another problem I have found is that should you want to make up the table to play an historical battle,having irregular scenery makes it harder ( to me anyway) to work out how big or at what scale to make the armies.

Therefore I decided to try and make the scenery fit to the square system. This created my first problem in that most war game scenery is made for the figure scale not for the table. This meant I  would probably have to make my own.

I will say at this at this point that I have acquired ( when I could afford it) tailor made scenery, but most times I have made my own. It's not brilliant, but it does fit the 2 inch grid.

The next item was , how much scenery do I need?. Well, I decided firstly how big a table I had room for. Years ago I had a 6x4 foot table, then a 7x5 foot table. That is 180cm x 120cm then 210 x 150 cm. That was when I was using measuring tapes and bounce sticks. At that time I was a flat dweller therefore on numerous occasions I had to move the furniture to accommodate the table,and the guys I used to wargame with. I was also using 28mm figures.

Fluctuating fortunes in the job market made sure I never became a home owner. Fluctuating money supply made selling my figure collections an unavoidable event.

Fast forward a few years. I'm still a flat dweller and married, with children coming and going according to the ebb and flow of their own circumstances. Also elderly relatives were reaching the time in life when they needed help.

Having a large war game table with big scenery and loads of 28mm figures is no longer an option. So, thinking "Bejou and compact" the table is 3 x 2 feet, (90 x 60 cm). Everything I play is geared to that table size. The table is in one corner of the bedroom. This means I can have a game and leave it in situ should we have visitors.

So, having fixed the board size I  worked on the amount of scenery required. Having thought about the sort of battles I wanted to do this is the basic requirement I  came up with ;

6 hills, 8 x 8 inches ( 20cm x 20cm)
6 hills 4 x 4 inches ( 10cm x 10cm)
3 base outlines for woods  6 x 8 inches ( 15cm x 20cm)
The trees themselves are not fixed and on their own bases. This is so I can move them to put figure stands within the woods.

For rivers I use thin blue card overlapping marked in two inch segments. I use 2 inch (50cm) wide pieces for small rivers/ streams. I use 4 and 6 inch width ( 10cm and 15cm) for larger rivers requiring a boat to cross. The reason being that using cheap card allows me to make any kind of river formation.

The same reasoning applies to roads and the outline of villages. I use light brown card for this. I tried using sticky tape but having left it on the board to long the tape was a job to get off! and it marked the board.

Over the course of time I have built all kinds of scenery. It's not that good but it forfills a requirement . In recent times I wanted a fleet of 4inch (40mm) long ships wide enough to fit a stand in. I built 18 ships. They would definitely NOT win any awards for expert modelling! but, I can get my Saxon warbands ashore in Southern Britain.

The materials I use are;
Cardboard, the thick type used for picture framing and the other thin stuff.
Sandwich board, the stuff with a layer of foam between two pieces of cardboard.
Cocktail sticks.
PVA glue.
Texturing paste. This stuff can only be got from an art store or online. It's not cheap but you get a big pot. This  is great if your model doesn't  go together accurately. You just brush the paste on and let it dry. It can be undercoated and painted as normal. It's handy for covering over the rough bits!!.

Next time I'll talk about the era's  I'm  interested in and why.

The top pictures show my boats ( sorry, barges)
The bottom pictures show the castle. All scratchbuilt.

The figures are Hat Industries Goths and Emhar Viking Rowers.

The 2" (50mm) Grid.

As mentioned in my previous Blog I have opted for the 2 inch ( 50mm ) square.
My 40mm square bases or "Stands"are cut to fit within that space. There are a few reasons for this. In the first instance,it was about formations.

A Stand is a unit in its own right. It can represent an individual Company, Battalion or
Brigade. By not having bigger formations of Stands, there is no reason for loads of rules on formation changes.

Not having a specific ratio scale i.e., one Stand equals 100 men allows you to fit the Army to the board rather than building an Army and  finding that the figure collection you have worked hard in building cannot operate in the the space that you have to battle in.

I have a system whereby each base has a number. This is an indicator of training,  armament and function. It is also very helpful in assessing the size of an army.
For  example, say I  wanted to represent a Roman Republican army of 20,000 men.


This army had specific troop types which should be represented. If we use 1 point for every 1000 men, we would need 20 points. Two thirds of the heavy  infantry had swords, javelins, large shields and helmets so these would be 3points for each Stand. The remaining heavy  infantry would be the Veterans. These men could afford the best armour and their main weapon was the spear. They were held in reserve and had an elite status , therefore these would be 4 points for one Stand.

 The army would also have light infantry maybe with just javelins and a shield. There would two Stands of these at 1 point each. Next ,the cavalry. Now, the Roman cavalry were well equipped but not exceptional and only present in small numbers so we have two Stands at 2 points each. Finally the man himself. The General. Again, not being anything special his Stand is 1 point.


Altogether we have nine Stands  representing 20,000 men. If you decide that hey, I can get more Stands on one side of the board , then use a scale of 1 point equals 500 men. This would give you a 40pt Army.

The number of figures on each Stand is immaterial. The figures are there as a visual reminder of what each Stand represents. It is the number assigned to the Stand that is important as this number is added to the Firing and Combat die rolls.

The same criteria applies to ground scales. By trying to scale the ground movement to that of real army manouvres, two opposing sides would clash almost immediately  with no chance of flanking moves etc.

The word here is; compromise.
I started out by deciding that hand thrown weapons would be as far as the adjacent square. Next, smoothbore muskets would be two squares. Smoothbore artillery would at least be able to fire twice as far so the range for these weapons would be four squares. That would be easy to remember.

The movement rules were a a bit of a fudge.  I spent considerable  time working  out movement rates and then scaled them down. This was again a compromise between marching across a parade ground in good weather on the one hand as opposed to slogging across a muddy field in damp clothes trying to maintain formation while being deafened by gunfire,blinded by smoke, trying to hear orders and I suspect in a number of cases poohing and peeing at the same time. 

Frederick the 2nd knew when his men were getting ready for a battle. When he halted a Marching column he turned around to see 50,000 men relieving themselves at the sides of the road!!.

Again, I came up with 2 squares movement for all Infantry and 4 squares for cavalry. The cavalry had its own set of problems. Again, theoretical movement on the Parade ground is fine. Once on campaign things can go wrong pretty quickly. Horses can go lame. If not fed enough they loose condition. Saddle sores, loss of strength to carry weight. Exhaustion, battle wounds, badly shod ,mud and pot holes. These are just some of the problems besetting a Cavalry General.

In the 18th century the Spanish General Count Gages reckoned each Battalion of Infantry at 350 effectives out of a paper strength of 750 men. The same attritional numbers applied to the cavalry. Very often, on campaign ( and virtually any era ) at least half a cavalry regiment found themselves as dismounted  infantry because of the lack of remounts.
So, when doing your research or when focusing on your favourite army always round down on numbers. Also, see if the main army used any Allies. Inclusion of these makes an Army more interesting.

For my own armies I have found that 40 points worth of Stands ( 1point = 500 actual combatants) will give you about an hour,s  worth of gaming, on a 3 foot by 2 foot table. Also creating such a force won't stretch your patience and your pocket in creating your forces. More about that next time.

At the top of this page is an 18th century army of 40 points. ( MINIATURE FIGURINES)
Below, a 40 point Late Roman Imperial Army ( HAT INDUSTRIES WITH SOME NEWLINE DESIGNS ARCHERS)