Showing posts with label Peter Dennis Paperboys. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peter Dennis Paperboys. Show all posts

Tuesday 17 January 2023

The Battle of Breitenfield, Saxony 1631

 This article is my own interpretation of events in this era. Any mistakes are my own. Once again I’ve used the Peter Dennis Paperboys I used in the Edgehill scenario.

The conflict that became known as The Thirty Years War in Europe started in 1618. The social and economic situation was complicated, not only amongst the Germanic Principalities, but also between members of the Hapsburg family, however the central basic reason was confessional politics. 

The Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and his Council came up  with a Law that the people of a State within the Empire must follow the religion of the leader. 

Naturally, most of the major leaders were Catholic, and there was a concerted effort to remove Protestants from positions of power and ruin them financially.

After one heated meeting between the Emperors representatives and Protestant delegates, three Catholic Ministers were thrown out of a high window! This incident became known as the Defenestration of Prague. Luckily the three men survived by landing on a dung heap!.

The Protestant Leaders raised military forces and there were battles, but their efforts were disorganised and the Catholic Imperial  military were more than capable of defeating them. The Battle of the White Mountain is one example.

Another major stumbling block was money. Very often forces of militia and mercenaries were raised, then defrauded of their pay. This led to banditry and looting which became worse as the War progressed.

Then, in 1631 the Protestants found a Champion. King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, who landed at Pomerania. King Gustavus wasn’t there just to help the Protestant cause. The King was concerned about the Emperor’s plans to wrest control of the Baltic from the Swedish Kingdom. While the Protestant Princes dithered, Magdeburg was sacked by the Catholic Imperial army led by General Ferdinand.

King Gustav marched his army to Leipzig. Offering John Georg better terms, the Saxon Monarch was persuaded to join the Protestant side. The Catholic Army, now led by Count Tilly ( Ferdinand having been sacked by the Emperor ) marched into Saxony intent on destroying the Swedish army along with its Saxon allies.

The two opposing armies faced each other across an undulating plain North- East of Leipzig near a village that was to give the battle its name.



THE SWEDISH ARMY; 23,000 = 23 points x 2 = 46 points.

15,000 Infantry = 15 points x 2 = 30 points.

8 stands of Muskets @ 2 points = 16 points.

4 stands of Pike. @. 3 points = 12 points.

1 General ( Gustav Horn ). @ 2 points.

8,000 Cavalry = 8 points x 2 =16 points.

6 stands of Cavalry. @ 2 points. = 12 points.

1 General ( Sir Johann Baner ) @ 2 points.

1 General ( King Gustavus ). @. 2 point.

THE SAXON ARMY: 12,000 = 12 points x 2 = 24 Points.

7,000 Infantry = 7 points x 2 = 14 points.

2 stands of Pikemen @ 3 points = 6 points.

4 stands of muskets. @ 2 points. = 8 points.

5,000 Cavalry. = 5 points x 2 = 10 points.

4 stands of Cavalry @ 2 points. = 8 points.

1 stand of Dragoon Cavalry @ 1 point.

1 General ( John George )  @ 1 point.

COMBINED ARTILLERY: 70 Guns + 1,400 Gunners.=

1.4 x 2 = 2.8 or 3 points r/u = 3 stands of Light Artillery @ 1pt = 3 points.



THE IMPERIAL ARMY: 37,000 = 37 points x 2 = 74 Points.

28,000 Infantry = 28 points x 2 = 56 points.

10 stands of Pikemen @ 3 points = 30 points.

12 stands of muskets  @ 2 points = 24 points.

1 General ( Count Ergon 8th of Furstenburg )  @  1 point.

1 General  (  Johann Tserclaes Count of Tilly )  @  1 point.

9,000 Cavalry = 9 points x 2 = 18 points.

6 stands of Cavalry @ 2 points = 12 points.

5 stands of Dragoon Cavalry  @ 1 point =5 points

1 General ( Gottfried Heinrich Graf zu Pappenheim ) @ 1 point.

ARTILLERY:

46 Guns with 920 Gunners = 0.920 pts x 2 = 2pts r/u.=

2 stands of Light Artillery @ 1 point = 2 points.



BATTLE NOTES;

* All the Infantry, Cavalry, Imperial and Saxon  Artillery stands must move through the face of a square not a diagonal.

*  Dragoon Cavalry of 1 point and the Swedish Artillery of 1 point can move in any direction.

* The Swedish Army retains the Initiative Point for the duration of the battle. This does not include the Saxons. This is because the Saxon Army were mostly Militia.

* The Imperial Army moves first on the first Game-Turn. From Game-Turn 2 until Game-Turn 8, the Swedish Army moves first. ( including the Saxons ).

* The Swedish Army fires first on every Game-Turn.

* The Swedish Army gets 1 extra point on every Firing and Combat die. ( NOT THE SAXONS).

Note: The Swedish army at this time, was a well trained force with superior fire and movement tactics against the Imperial Army which were still using old doctrine.

* At the start of the 3rd Game-Turn, a 6 sided die is rolled for the Saxon army. On a roll of 1,2 or 3 the entire Saxon Wing is removed from the board.!  This test takes place at the start of every Game-Turn, after Game-Turn 3 while the Saxons are on the board.

* The Swedish army wins any tied results.

* ARTILLERY:

*  The artillery of the Swedish Army can move and fire.  The Artillery of the Imperial and Saxon Army must remain static.

Note:  I’ve played this game using normal procedures and the Swedish army becomes overwhelmed without their abilities and training being reflected.

* At the end of the 8th Game-Turn, the side with the higher number of stands lost,  looses the battle. The Saxons that run off are NOT included in that total.



THE SET-UP.

The blocks of figures, the trees and the villages were made up using the illustrations from the English Civil War book by Peter Dennis and printed by Helion and Co. The prints were reproduced in A5. See the previous blog on “ The Paperboys of Peter Dennis”——.

The road was made from thin card obtained from Amazon. The cloth is a 3 foot x 2 foot ( 90cm x 60cm) piece of felt cloth marked in 2 inch ( 50mm ) squares.

The windmills were scratchbuilt using foam board, thin cardboard and matchsticks. I used a piece of paintbrush tubing and a dressmakers pin to attach the sails.

The flags were made from sticky labels and cocktail sticks, then hand painted also using a 0.5 marker pen.




Sunday 12 June 2022

The Paperboys of Peter Dennis and the English Civil War.

 Some years ago my Wargaming activities involved the 17th century. Both the Thirty years War and the English Civil War occupied the time of myself and my mates. The European theatre we gamed with 25mm figures, however the English War was the main event.

Having sold my 25mm figures ( fiscal paucity was a constant back then), I bought a load of 6mm figures. The Matchlock rules came from using them.


A mate of mine came up with a campaign with three of us as Royalists and three as the Roundheads. The large battles were fought with the 6mm figures and the skirmishes with the 25mm stuff. Well, I was Charles 1st and even though we just played it as a campaign, well, you know what happened to me!

Anyway, I digress. Roll on 34 years and once again, I feel drawn back to this conflict. This time though, I didn’t want to collect and paint the figures! I had purchased Peter Dennis’s book on the English Civil War, and it had been on my bookshelf for a while. When published, Peters books drew a bit of negative press, not for the content which is excellent.

No, it was the thought of printing and cutting out all the paper figures, that didn’t appeal to a number of people including myself. Each figure or group of figures has a front and back like the stickers in the Command and Color’s games. That’s when I had this idea. Why not make the blocks out of foam board stuck on cardboard!

I got some pages printed up. ( Peter has given his permission for personal use in the book.) I cut them out and stuck them on blocks. Well it works. So, here’s how

1) The first item is to get your pages printed. I went to a Printers and asked for three copies of all the pages of the figures. I had this done in A5 to reduce the size a bit, on 100gsm paper

2) Material items required ;

       PVA glue

       A Pritt stick ( or any paper glue ).

       A packet of cocktail sticks.

       A packet of  self adhesive labels.

       2 or 3 sheets of A4 Foamboard.5mm thick.

        A length of rubber tubing 4mm x 1mm.

        Some picture framing stiff cardboard.

        Some pots of acrylic paint ( optional) ;

        Blue, Red, Green and Silver.

        A sheet of graph paper.

       A packet of dressmaker pins.

    Note; Most of the above can be obtained from local stores or from Amazon.

TOOLS REQUIRED;

A good crafting knife ( young people should ask a parent ).

A good pair of scissors ( young people should ask a parent ).

A pair of wire cutters. ( otherwise known as “ small side cutters” ) these are for cutting the cocktail sticks and clipping the corners of the bases.

A cutting mat. ( If you can get one of these it saves a lot of measuring).

A pair of tweezers.

3) THE INFANTRY AND DISMOUNTED DRAGOONS.

I cut these blocks first from the Foamboard, 25mm high ( 1 and 1/8th inches ) by 30mm wide ( 1 and 5/16th inches). 36 are required for two armies.


Next, I cut the bases from the picture-framing cardboard. These are 15mm deep (6/8ths )x 40 mm wide ( 1 and 11/16th inches ).

For the DRAGOONS, the bases are 20mm deep (7/8ths of an inch ) and 40 long ( 1 and 11/16ths inches ).

You will notice that I have clipped the corners of the bases. This stops the cardboard from “ fraying “ and makes the cardboard more durable.





Once the blocks and bases were cut, I started on the illustrations. I cut these out less the green bases. This is where you need to keep an eye on the pairs ( back and front.)

Once these were cut, I then used the Pritt stick on the blocks gluing the illustrations. Be aware that once the illustration is laid on It Is On!



Once all the Infantry were glued to the blocks, I glued the blocks to the bases using the PVA glue. You can be a bit generous with the glue because it shrinks and drys clear. It takes a while to dry. Put these to one side.

THE DRESSMAKER PINS;

If your cutting is a bit wonky like mine then this is where the pins come in. If the block won’t stand up straight when using the PVA, put a pin in in the base and push it gently against the block until it’s vertical and leave to set.



THE PIKEMEN;

The Pikemen are stuck to the same size blocks. When they are dry, stick them to the bases as for the Muskets. Once they have dried for the second time, cut 4 cocktail sticks to 40 mm. (1 and 11/16ths )

Glue on the cocktail stick’s by putting some PVA glue on the hand and on the base. Once done leave them to set. The next part was to paint the tips in silver. On the body of the pike,I painted a blob of blue or red paint then a blob of Flesh colour to show a hand.



 
THE CAVALRY AND MOUNTED DRAGOONS;

The same procedure is followed for the cavalry and Dragoons. The foam blocks are 30mm ( 1 and 1/4 inches ) x 30mm ( 1 and 1/4 inches ). The bases are 15mm deep ( 6/8ths of an inch ) x 40mm wide ( 1 and 11/16th inches ). Again, making sure you have the back and front pairings, use the Pritt stick to glue the illustrations to the blocks. Any overlaps go to the bottom. I trim these up before gluing the blocks to the picture framing cardboard with the PVA glue.

THE DRAGOONS;

Again. These bases are 20mm deep (( 15/16ths) by 40 mm long.(1 and 11/16ths ).




THE ARTILLERY;

These blocks are 25 mm high (  1 and 1/8th inches )by 45mm wide ( 1 and7/8th inches ).The illustrations are a bit tricky because the crew are separate from the cannon so a little more work is required. The bases are 15mm wide ( 6/8ths ) by 45 mm wide ( 1and 7/8th inches).




THE COMMANDERS;

The Commanders are separate along with some standard bearers so, sizes vary according to composition. They are 35mm high ( 1 and 1/2 inches)  and between 30 to 45mm wide ( 1 and a 1/2 inches to 1 and 7/8ths inches ).The bases are 15mm wide ( 6/8ths of an inch ) and up to 45 mm long ( 1 and 7/8ths inches ). Some of the Generals are drawn with two arm positions. Using the craft knife carefully remove one arm.




Once you have assembled the blocks, it’s time to think of flags and about painting——or not, depending how much work you wish to do.


THE FLAGS;
 I cut the cocktail sticks to 50mm. ( 2 and 1/16th of an inch).The flag strips are cut from labels 15mm wide.( 6/8ths).


I used graph paper to line up the crosses on the flag


I drew the crosses onto the flags with a red ballpoint pen. The rest of the flag surface I painted in blue and red. When this had dried, I painted the tips in silver. The Dragoon flags were rounded at the ends to help with identification. The artillery flags I cut like a pennant.




THE FLAG HOLDER:
While the flags are drying, I glued 10mm ( 9/16ths ) pieces of rubber tubing to the back of the stands with the PVA glue.


Once all the stands are dry, they can be painted if required. I used Game Workshops Moot Green, but this is personal choice. I painted one side, of the top surface, let it dry then painted the other side.

 

The army is now assembled


I have assembled these two armies for my own Table Top Battles ruleset where one stand sits in a square. However, if you like the larger formations ( or larger armies)with the chance to represent line and column the stand sizes will allow for this.

You can also enhance the blocks with a bit of light shading. There are also Infantry and cavalry Command groups included amongst the illustrations allowing Regimental actions.

Peter has done other books on different Eras. These two armies took me two weeks doing an hour/ 2 hours every day. I must admit it was good not having to paint loads of figures ( my time is limited these days ). If this might suit your gaming have a look on www.helion.co.uk and type “Peter Dennis” in the search box.

 Peter has done a number of books on different eras of British history. Now I’ve done the armies, a few battles are in order!

Ps. I’m hoping Peter will create Macedonian Successors, Galatian’s, or even Early Carthaginians and Greeks!